The Evolution of the Gangster Suit: A Look Back at its Origins and Influence

The Evolution of the Gangster Suit: A Look Back at its Origins and Influence

From the sharp pinstripes and fedoras of the 1920s to the iconic three-piece suits of the 1970s, the gangster suit has been a symbol of power, style, and rebellion for almost a century. But where did this iconic fashion statement originate, and how did it evolve over time? Join us on a journey through the history of the gangster suit, as we explore its roots in the underworld of early 20th-century America, its rise to mainstream popularity in the 1930s and 40s, and its enduring influence on fashion and pop culture. Aaron Sarfati, President of Contempo Suits, will go into the stories of some of the most notorious gangsters who sported these suits and examine the ways in which the gangster style continues to inspire and captivate us today. So grab your fedora and learn about the world of the gangster-style suit – it's a ride you won't want to miss.

The Origins of the Gangster Suit

Gangster style suits have its roots in the early 20th century when organized crime was on the rise in America. As gangsters became more powerful and influential, they began to dress in a way that reflected their status. The suits they wore were often made of expensive fabrics such as wool and silk and were tailored to fit their bodies perfectly. These suits were often adorned with pinstripes, which were intended to make the wearer appear taller and slimmer. Much of the point of the style was about bravado. In effect, showing off and letting people know that you were not one to be messed with. This also had the added effect of being noticed and recognized by the police. Additionally, gangsters often wore fedoras or other types of hats, which added to their overall sense of style and sophistication.

One of the most famous early examples of suits that gangsters wear can be seen in the classic film "Scarface" (1932), which starred Paul Muni as a ruthless gangster named Tony Camonte. In the film, Camonte wears a sharp pinstripe suit and a fedora, which became iconic symbols of the gangster genre. Other films of the era, such as "Little Caesar" (1931) and "The Public Enemy" (1931), also featured gangsters dressed in stylish suits, helping to establish the gangster suit as a cultural phenomenon.

The style was also influenced by the fashion trends of the time. In the 1920s and 30s, men's suits were becoming slimmer and more fitted, with shorter jackets and narrower lapels. This style, known as the "New York cut," was favored by gangsters because it emphasized their physiques and made them appear more powerful. Suit makers made the shoulders a little more padded to give the wearer a broader shoulder look. The gangster-style suit also borrowed elements from the zoot suit, a flamboyant style popularized by African American and Latino communities in the 1940s.

The Influence of Hollywood on the Gangster Suit

Hollywood played a major role in popularizing the style. In the 1930s and 40s, films like "The Roaring Twenties" (1939) and "White Heat" (1949) showcased gangsters dressed in stylish suits, further cementing the gangster suit's place in popular culture. Many of these films were also influenced by real-life gangsters, such as Al Capone and Lucky Luciano, who were known for their dapper attire.

Perhaps the most iconic Hollywood portrayal of the gangster suit can be seen in "The Godfather" (1972), which starred Marlon Brando as the powerful mafia boss Vito Corleone. Brando's suits in the film were custom-made by the high-end tailor Nino Corvato, and were designed to reflect Corleone's status as a wealthy and powerful figure. The suits featured wide lapels, padded shoulders, and a distinctive waistcoat, which became known as the "Godfather vest."

The movie was so influential that actual Mafia associates started wearing nice looking suits again.

The gangster suit also had an influence on other aspects of popular culture, including music. In the 1930s and 40s, swing jazz bands were often dressed in sharp suits and fedoras, and the style became associated with the music itself. This trend continued into the 1950s and 60s, when rock and roll performers like Elvis Presley and Jerry Lee Lewis adopted the same look.

The Role of Gangster Culture in the Evolution of the Suit

The gangster suit has always been associated with rebellion and non-conformity. In the early years of its development, the suit was seen as a way for gangsters to differentiate themselves from mainstream society. The sharp, attention-grabbing style of the suit was intended to send a message about the wearer's power and influence.

As the look became more popular, it began to lose some of its edge. By the 1940s and 50s, the suit had become a staple of mainstream fashion, worn by businessmen, politicians, and other members of polite society. However, the gangster suit continued to hold a certain allure for those who wanted to stand out from the crowd.

In the 1960s and 70s, the style experienced a resurgence in popularity, thanks in part to the rise of blaxploitation films. These films featured African American actors dressed in sharp suits and driving flashy cars and were hugely influential in shaping the look of the era. The suits worn by characters like Shaft and Superfly were often brightly colored and featured wide lapels and flared trousers, reflecting the flamboyant style of the time. Finished off with garish platform shoes of the era.

The Return of the Gangster Suit in Modern Fashion

In recent years, the look has made a comeback in the world of fashion. Designers like Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani have incorporated elements of the gangster suit into their collections, creating modern interpretations of the classic style. These suits often feature slimmer cuts and more contemporary details, such as shorter jackets and narrower lapels.

The gangster suit has also been embraced by a new generation of musicians and performers. Rappers like Jay-Z and Kanye West have incorporated the gangster suit into their stage costumes, giving the classic style a fresh, modern twist. The suit has also become popular among actors and celebrities, who wear it on the red carpet and at other high-profile events.

Iconic Gangster Suit Designs

Over the years, the suit has taken on many different forms, each with its own unique style and flair. Some of the most iconic gangster suit designs include:

- The pinstripe suit: This classic design features sharp, narrow stripes that run vertically down the suit. The stripes are typically white or gray and are set against a dark background. The point of these stripes is to get noticed fast. They are not the type of fine stripes that you would see a lawyer or businessman wear. This design is often associated with the gangsters of the 1920s and 30s.

- The double-breasted suit: This style features a jacket with two rows of buttons, giving it a more formal and sophisticated look. The double breasted suit was popularized in the 1930s and 40s and was often worn by gangsters who wanted to project an image of power and authority. The extra-wide peak lapels did the job of portraying power.

- The 3-piece suit: This style includes a jacket, waistcoat, and trousers, and is often worn with a fedora or other type of hat. The 3-piece suit was popularized in the 1940s and 50s and is often associated with the suave and sophisticated gangsters of that era.

How to Style the Gangster Suit Today

If you're looking to incorporate the gangster suit into your wardrobe, there are a few key things to keep in mind. First and foremost, it's important to choose a suit that fits you well. A properly fitted suit will not only look better but will also help you feel more confident and powerful.

When it comes to accessories, a fedora or other type of dress hat is a classic choice. You can also add a pocket square or tie to give your suit a pop of color or pattern. Make sure the pocket square is folded in a manner to show off instead of being neatly tucked in. Shoes should be polished and well-maintained, and should complement the style of the suit. If you choose two-tone wingtip shoes, you are on the right track of dressing in a classic gangster style.

Finally, it's important to wear your gangster suit with confidence. A well-tailored suit can be a powerful statement, but it's up to you to own the look and make it your own. That means that you need to carry yourself like you own the room.

The Future of the Gangster Suit

As fashion continues to evolve, it's likely that the gangster suit will continue to play a role in shaping the way we dress. While the classic pinstripe suit may never go out of style, designers will undoubtedly find new ways to update and modernize the look.

At the same time, the gangster suit will continue to hold a certain allure for those who are drawn to its rebellious, non-conformist style. Whether worn by gangsters, musicians, or everyday people, the gangster suit will always be a symbol of power, style, and individuality.

Criticisms of the Gangster Suit and its Association with Criminal Culture

While the gangster suit has become an iconic symbol of style and rebellion, it has also been criticized for its association with criminal culture. Some argue that by wearing a gangster suit, individuals are glorifying violence and criminal behavior.

However, others see the gangster suit as a way to reclaim and reinterpret a style that has been co-opted by mainstream culture. By wearing a gangster suit, individuals can express their own sense of style and individuality, while also paying homage to the rebellious spirit of the original gangsters.

Conclusion

The gangster suit is a timeless symbol of power, style, and rebellion. From its origins in the early 20th century to its influence on fashion and pop culture today, the gangster suit has remained a fixture of American style and culture.

Whether worn by gangsters, musicians, or everyday people, the gangster suit will always hold a certain allure. It represents a spirit of non-conformity and individuality that continues to inspire and captivate us today. So put on your best pinstripe suit, grab your fedora, and step into the world of the gangster – it's a ride you won't want to miss.