Oct 24, 2024
How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit: A Complete Guide for Modern Men
A double breasted suit can be worn most successfully by paying attention to the style, fit, shirt and shoes you decide to wear with it. Wearing one allows you to exude confidence and style, but it also requires careful attention to detail. The key to pulling off a double breasted suit is more than just choosing the right jacket—it's about ensuring every aspect of your outfit is meticulously coordinated, from the fit to the accessories.
In this article, we’ll guide you through how to wear a double-breasted suit, starting with the essential steps like finding a quality suit, ensuring a proper fit, and selecting the right accessories. By the end, you’ll know how to look your absolute best in this classic menswear piece. Read blog: Double breasted pinstripe suit: why every guy needs one here.
Key Takeaways: How to Wear a Double-Breasted Suit with Confidence
- Find Quality Materials: A well-made double-breasted suit should be constructed from quality fabrics and feature neat linings and securely fastened buttons.
- Ensure a Proper Fit: The jacket should hug your body but allow for comfortable movement, and the pants should be properly hemmed to sit neatly on top of your shoes.
- Choose the Right Shirt: Always wear a freshly pressed dress shirt with a pointed collar, and avoid casual shirts like oxfords.
- Select the Right Tie: If your suit is a solid color, opt for a bold patterned tie. For patterned suits, stick to a subtle, muted pattern.
- Wear Italian-Style Shoes: Your shoes should be in new condition and well-polished, preferably in the sleek, sophisticated Italian style. Don’t forget to match your belt to your shoes.
Finding the Perfect Double-Breasted Suit
Before diving into the finer details of how to wear a double-breasted suit, the first step is to find a quality suit that suits your style and needs.
Look for Quality Materials and Construction
The most important aspect of any suit is its fabric and construction. A high-quality double-breasted suit should be made from premium materials, whether wool, a wool blend, or even a lightweight fabric for warmer climates. Not only does a quality fabric look better, it will drape more nicely on your body and last longer.
- Material: Wool and wool blends are the most common materials for double-breasted suits. They provide warmth, structure, and elegance. For summer months, a linen or lightweight wool suit might be more appropriate. Poly/Rayon is also an excellent choice for a more affordable suit.
- Construction: Make sure the suit is well-constructed. A fully lined jacket adds durability and comfort, while secure buttons ensure longevity.
Pay Attention to Lining and Buttons
The details of the suit's lining and buttons can make all the difference. A well-made double-breasted suit should have a neatly finished lining that doesn’t bunch or pull when you wear it. The buttons should be securely stitched, as they are a central feature of this suit style.
- Jacket Lining: A high-quality lining will not only feel smooth but will also help the jacket fit more comfortably.
- Secure Buttons: Because a double-breasted suit has more buttons than a single-breasted suit, it’s crucial to ensure they are securely sewn in and that they align properly when the jacket is fastened.
Proper Fit Is Key
A double-breasted suit looks best when it fits just right. Fit is crucial to achieving that sharp, structured look that this type of suit is known for.
The Jacket: Not Too Tight, Not Too Loose
When choosing a double-breasted jacket, it’s important to find one that is neither too tight nor too loose. It should hug your body in a flattering way but still allow room for movement. I can't recommend how much having an experienced tailor can take how you look in it to the next level.
- Tailored Adjustments: Make sure to have your jacket tailored. A tailor can adjust the fit of the jacket, ensuring that it looks sleek without being restrictive. Pay attention to the shoulders, as they should sit flush with your own shoulder line without extending past it.
- Sleeve Length: The length of your jacket sleeves is equally important. You want to show about half an inch of your shirt cuff when wearing a double-breasted suit. This small detail adds an extra level of sophistication.
The Pants: Just the Right Length
The slacks that accompany your double-breasted suit should also fit well. They shouldn’t be too tight, nor should they be too baggy. You want everything to look just right.
- Proper Hemming: Your pants should be properly hemmed so that they sit just right on top of your shoes. A slight break at the ankle is ideal for a modern, polished look.
Dress Shirt Selection: Stick to the Right Style
Once you’ve ensured that your suit fits perfectly, the next step is to choose the right dress shirt to wear underneath. This is an area where many people go wrong, but with the right tips, you’ll get it just right.
Choose a Freshly Pressed Shirt
Your dress shirt should always be freshly pressed and in new condition. A wrinkled or worn-out shirt will detract from your double-breasted suit's crisp, clean lines. The shirt should complement the formal nature of the suit, not undermine it.
- Pointed Collar: The best choice of collar for a double-breasted suit is a pointed collar. It adds a sharp, sophisticated look to the overall outfit. Avoid oxford button-down collars, as these are considered casual and do not pair well with the formality of a double-breasted suit. Never make the mistake of thinking that an oxford shirt is a dress shirt. They are generally made of a less finer woven material. You want to look for a shirt that is made of either broadcloth or equally fine. You have to remember that this is a more formal style of suit.
- New Condition: Make sure your shirt is in new condition—no frayed edges, worn cuffs, or faded colors. The sharpness of your outfit relies on every component being fresh and polished.
When wearing a double-breasted suit, there are a few key rules to follow when it comes to buttoning the jacket. One of the most important guidelines is that the jacket should always be buttoned while standing. This helps maintain the sharp, structured look that a double-breasted suit is known for. Leaving the jacket unbuttoned can make the fit appear loose and unkempt, diminishing the elegance of your outfit.
How to Button a Double-Breasted Suit Properly
Let's not forget that you are wearing a suit jacket and how it should be worn. Most double-breasted suits feature either a six-button or four-button design, with the six-button version being more common. On a six-button suit, a general rule is to keep the bottom button open. This gives the suit a more natural, flowing appearance, allowing you to move comfortably while preserving the formal look.
- Standing Position: While standing, always keep the top two buttons fastened and the bottom button open. This classic style ensures the jacket maintains its elegant silhouette.
- Sitting Position: When you sit down, you can unbutton the jacket for comfort. But remember to button it again when you stand up.
Following these buttoning rules will help you look polished and ensure that your double-breasted suit retains its refined and tailored appearance throughout the day.
Choosing the Right Tie for Your Suit
When it comes to ties, the choice depends largely on whether your suit is a solid color or patterned.
Solid Color Suits: Go Bold with the Tie
If your double-breasted suit is a solid color, you have more freedom to choose a bolder tie. A bold patterned tie adds contrast and visual interest to the outfit.
- Examples: Stripes, geometric patterns, or paisley designs can all work well with a solid-colored suit.
Patterned Suits: Keep the Tie Subtle
If your suit already has a patterned fabric, such as pinstripes or windowpane checks, it’s best to keep your tie more understated. A muted pattern or small pattern tie will prevent your outfit from becoming too busy.
- Examples: A small polka dot or a simple diagonal stripe in complementary colors will work well.
Footwear Matters: Stick to Italian-Style Dress Shoes
Your shoes are an essential part of completing the double-breasted suit look. When it comes to footwear, Italian-style dress shoes are the best match for this formal, elegant ensemble.
The Right Shoes
- New Condition: Just like your shirt, your shoes should be in new condition—well-polished and free of scuffs. Worn-out shoes can ruin the entire look of a double-breasted suit.
- Style: Italian-style shoes, known for their sleek design and high-quality leather, are the best choice. They pair perfectly with the sharp lines of the suit, elevating the entire look.
Match the Belt with the Shoes
It’s important to ensure that your belt matches your shoes. A black belt should be paired with black shoes, while brown shoes require a brown belt. This small detail brings cohesiveness to your outfit.
Conclusion: Looking Your Best in a Double-Breasted Suit
Wearing a double-breasted suit is about more than just slipping on a jacket and trousers. It requires careful attention to detail, from selecting the right fabrics and fit to ensuring that every element of your outfit, from the shirt to the shoes, is coordinated.
When worn correctly, a double-breasted suit will help you look your best and exude confidence at any formal event. Remember to start with a quality suit, ensure a proper fit with the help of a tailor, and complete the look with a freshly pressed shirt, the right tie, and Italian-style shoes. By following these guidelines, you’ll be able to wear a double-breasted suit with elegance and ease.
